Comfort me with apples
Monday, August 25th, 2008Apples are my absolutely favourite fruit. I like lots of different fruit and I enjoy the whole experience of seasonal produce – so I’m finishing up the raspberry/strawberry season now, with regret at its passing. But the beginning of the apple season is always a biggie for me. Here in England, June and July are dismal apple months because the local fruit has lost most of its appeal: even if it’s been well stored most of the varieties have gone a bit spongy and look very low-spirited. Despite my eco-worrier’s anxieties about food miles I eat New Zealand apples when they’re around, partly out of loyalty and partly out of delight in their flavour. (And I tell myself they’re shipped to the UK rather than flown, so they must surely carry less of a carbon footprint.) I cook and freeze big bags of apples just about all year round, and rely on those to carry me through the lean times of apple-free months.
And now the long wait’s over – Discovery apples have arrived! They’re the prettiest as well as the earliest, and I tell you that my heart lifts when I see the first of them in the shops and markets around the middle of August. (Those are Discoveries in the picture above.) The translucent skins have such a pretty pink blush to them, and that seeps through into part of the fruit as well. Discoveries have a good light crunch and they’re pleasingly sharp, too – they don’t have as much flavour as other apples that come later in the season, but they’re good. They cook into a lovely froth of foam, rather like Bramleys, but their flavour’s a lot more interesting than Bramleys, I think – in fact I seldom use cooking apples for cooking; I much prefer to use dessert apples for baking and stewing.
This week I also saw the first Worcesters in the market – there’s a short season for this smaller, dark red apple, which has a dense texture and a flowery scent. Next month there will be Laxtons, Blenheims, Egremont Russets, and James Grieves, to be followed in October by Kidd’s Orange Red – and finally by the king of all the apples as far as I’m concerned: Cox’s Orange. And I’ve only named a few varieties that I can easily buy in local shops and markets – there are lots more that might turn up on a stall or a friend’s tree.
So suddenly the world’s more cheerful. Britain did brilliantly at the Olympic Games, it hasn’t rained in London for at least 12 hours, and the apple season has arrived.



